Day 26 Rock to Port Isaac . . . .

. . . or rather Port Isaac to Rock. The 8.30 bus from Port Isaac to Rock was cancelled and so we “decided” to walk this walk the other way around.

Port Isaac was just waking up. As we walked through the village the cafes and gift shops were just getting ready for another daily onslaught of visitors.

Port Isaac — with early morning swimmer (left) and the view of the harbour as we left the village

On leaving Port Isaac it soon becomes clear that this is going to be a hard walk, with lots of steep ascents and descents. The wind is blowing us along and the views of the rocky cliffs and the rough sea make the walking enjoyable.

The coast with evidence of quarry activity

The cliffs are scarred with evidence of the quarrying which took place a hundred or so years ago. The scenery must have looked very different then; it would have been a hard life for the people working in these dangerous conditions. We however have the opportunity to enjoy the abundant flowers.

Left to Right: Three cornered leek, primrose and sea campion; all abundant along the path

We keep walking, hoping the steep ups and downs have come to an end — only to round a corner and find our hope is quashed as we approach another long row of steps . . . . .

The coast path weaving around the headland (left) and a view of the “The Rumps” (headland) and “The Mauls” (the island) in the distance

At last Doyden Castle (circa 1830) comes into view and so we know we are close to Port Quin. Port Quin in Cornish is Porth Gwynn which means white harbour. It is a welcome sight — because the hardest part of todays 12 mile walk is over!

Port Quin is just around the corner (left) and the view when sitting at Port Quin

We enjoy a break at Port Quin and then walk along the grassy cliffs towards “The Rumps” — which have been visible for most of the morning. The walking has become easier.

Leaving Doyden Castle behind, as we walk along the grassy cliffs

The path around Trevan Point is steady and we look down on Lundy Hole and what are apparently “nice secluded beaches”. Today we can only see a tumble sharp rocks and crashing waves.

Looking down on Lundy Bay — beside the collapsed sea cave called Lundy Hole

The path now becomes busier as people walk the short circular routes from nearly car parks.

Blackthorn in full bloom (left) and Cochlearia danica (Danish scurvygrass) growing on the cliff tops

“The Rumps” are getting closer and finally we walk around then headland and then on around Pentire Point with its rocky outcrops, which reminds us of a dinosaur with a spiky back. We have great views of our last walk along the far shore of the Camel Estuary.

“The Rumps” and looking back to Pentire Point

Once around Pentire Point we look down into Polzeath. Fortunately it is low tide and we can walk along the shore. We pass rocks encrusted with mussels and then cross the beach to the village. We enjoy our picnic lunch while watching the surfers catching the waves in the far distance.

Looking down towards Polzeath (left), mussel encrusted rocks on the shore line and the walk across Polzeath Beach

After lunch we walk out of Polzeath along low grassy cliff edges and beach paths. When we reach Daymer Bay we descend to the beach and walk along the sand. The sandbar is know as the “Doom Bar”. According to folklore it was created as a dying curse by a mermaid who was shot when she refused the advances of a local man.

Daymer Bay

We then have a choice. We either walk up through the sand dunes or along the sandy beach running beside the estuary. We choose the latter, as it looks a whole lot easier! The tide is very low and as we approach Rock we meet people traipsing across the sand to catch the ferry to Padstow.

The ferry to Padstow is just visible (right hand side of picture on left) and Padstow Harbour just across the estuary

We have made good time and find a bakery in Rock. We enjoy coffee and cake and then wait about an hour for the bus back to Port Isaac. It has been a brilliant walk.